Costa Rica-What a Country!
Costa Rica is a beautiful country in the heart of Central America. It is bordered by Nicaragua and Panama. It has two contrasting shorelines. The Caribbean to the north and the Pacific Ocean to the south.
Access to Costa Rica is most common by air. The country is served by two major international airports, San Jose in the capital city and Liberia in the northwestern section. Liberia is a closer hop off to the Guanacaste and Arenal areas seeing significant tourist activity. San Jose is a central location and has the majority of air travel. The airport is clean and modern by any standard.
Roads in Costa Rica are adequate, though not up to the standards seen in the US or Europe. Travel times are impacted by the geography of the region, which in most areas is rather mountainous. A significant problem is mudslides. Even though the roads are well engineered for that occurrence, vertical slopes and a significant amount of rain contribute to a problem. I traveled a major highway west of San Jose after a significant rainfall and noted that the service crews were quick to respond in clearing the roads.
As the infrastructure of Costa Rica is still trying to keep pace with expansion, you will find that there are often lower quality dirt roads connecting the major roads to even 5-star hotels. Traffic can often be slowed by numerous one-lane bridges on the coastal areas. I find that more time should always be allotted with respect to making transfers and connections. Several trips which tour companies said would take three hours took four, for example, so plan accordingly.
GENERAL:
There are five things that comprise a town in Costa Rica . A church, soccer field, marketplace, school and a bar. Rather than using traditional street addresses, directions are often given in distance from one of these five prominent features. When trying to find a small hotel in downtown San Jose, the taxi driver navigated based on this method. Even though I was told there is an effort to improve signage, the lack of it and the nature of the winding roads can make finding some destinations a bit of a challenge.
The small towns have quaint “sodas”, which are a combination of store, bar and café. The national drink is a Cacique, which is a clear liquor made from sugar cane. The ox cart is symbolic of the most common form of travel from past history. These beautifully decorated carts have traditionally been painted in vibrant colors and reflect styles and designs of the different areas of the country. These carts pulled by oxen down narrow roads and used to transport products such as coffee beans to the markets and ports. The story goes that those men walking alongside the cart would often imbibe, and when taken to excess would have to crawl on the cart as the oxen would faithfully continue. This is known locally as “being on the wagon”.
The climate is warm and tropical, with frequent rainfall. The rainy season is eight or so months out of the year, with the driest periods in January through April. Rains are most frequent in the afternoon, making morning excursions the most likely to remain dry. For tourism, the “Green Season” is the fall, and has the lowest occupancy rates, hence the most cost-effective vacations. By contrast, the highest hotel occupancies are Christmas vacation and July.
ECO TOURISM:
The ministry of Tourism and the government of Costa Rica is making a concerted effort to carefully expand. The central focus of this effort rests with the Center for Sustained Tourism (CST). This organization is responsible for ecologically smart tourism development. For example, the hotels throughout the country are rated from one to five stars based on the level of compliance with the program. Owners and developers pay more than lip service to this rating and proudly tout their accomplishments. One resort in the Manual Antonio area, Si Como No, is one of the few that have achieved a 5-star rating. The owner proudly told me that only one tree was removed in the construction process and that the design won an award for its lack of visibility from the nearby coast.
Water is a valuable resource for Costa Rica, The system of aquifers contributes to a significant availability of clean water. This is an asset for tourism, (yes the tap water is safe to drink) as well as an export commodity. One tour guide told me of how common it was when he was younger to dig a hole a few meters deep to get fresh water right out of the ground.
Development is controlled to a certain degree. With an eye to conservation and in keeping with creating a unique vacation location, construction is limited to either 40% or 25% of the land assigned. This is to reduce the impact on the environment as well as producing an appealing result.
ZONES:
Costa Rica is commonly divided into eight zones, based on geography, climate and tourism. The Atlantic Zone is home to the Caribbean beaches and is more typical of Caribbean living. The town of Limon is prominent in this region.
The Pacific coast is divided into the North Pacific, Central Pacific and Southern Pacific Zones. Guanacaste to the Northwest, up to the Nicaraguan border is home to beautiful Pacific beaches and the resort town of Tamarindo. The Southern Zone is home to Corcovado which, according to National Geographic, is one of the “most biologically intense places on earth”.
The most popular area for American tourists is the Central Pacific region. This encompasses the resort towns of Quepos (Manual Antonio), Jaco and Herradura.
The Northern Zone borders the Caribbean and Nicaragua and is most noted for the Arenal volcano and resorts in that area. The mountainous areas are home to volcanoes and cloud forests. This zone is known as the Talamanca Mountain Zone. Finally, the Central Valley is home to San Jose and much of the cultural landmarks in the country.
FLORA:
The national tree is the Guanacaste, the namesake for the western region of the country. Trees are known to grow in excess of 300 feet in the many tropical rain forests. The rainforest canopy is one of the biggest draws for tourists. Monkeys, sloths and a huge quantity of exotic birds are readily seen from the roadsides and resorts. The civilized areas are integrated into the multitudes of forest canopy.
Costa Rica is home to over 9,000 species of plants. Many plants recognizable from warm climates in the US are also seen in abundance in Costa Rica. Alamanda, crotons, ixora, thai, ficus and an incredible variety of ferns decorate the resorts and can be seen along the roadsides. Palm trees are plentiful. The pineapple plantations have been largely replaced by African Palms. These are seen in abundance and are a valuable commodity due to the oil harvested from its berries. This oil is used in cosmetics and cooking oils. Chances are, the next time you enjoy a McDonald’s french fry order, it was probably cooked in palm oil from Costa Rica.
Coffee is a significant crop as well. The hillsides are often full of coffee trees. The Espiritu Santo, in the town of Naranjo, is an interesting stop on a major crossroads. Here, you can learn about the importance of this crop., tour the plantation and production facilities, and of course enjoy some delicious locals coffee.
Costa Rica produces just under two percent of the total coffee beans world-wide, yet contributes to 10% of the gourmet coffee. Its Arabica bean, suited for the climate, is widely relished for its taste.
FOOD:
The staple meal of Costa Rica is a mix of rice and beans called “gallo pinto”. This is popular at all meals, including breakfast. Plantains and fruit are also in abundance. Most meals will come with a fruit plate consisting of a mix of watermelon, pineapple, guava or mangos. Costa Rican coffee is always proudly served.
The local breads are usually delicious, often sweet tasting, and are enjoyed plain or with a marmalade. Most hotels serve Continental breakfasts and cater to the American appetite as well. Most feature “American breakfast” which is usually eggs, bacon, bread or toast and fruit..
Dinner usually consists of a meat dish made with chicken, fish, or occasionally, beef. This is served with a salad and rice and beans. It is not difficult to find contemporary western food, even in the smaller towns. The larger towns and cities, such as San Jose, have prominent American fast food restaurants, such as McDonald’s Hardees, Subway, and the like.
My favorite food item of the region is Lizano sauce. This delicious sauce is a great additive to the many dishes served. The story goes that the wife of a Costa Rican construction worker invented this sauce in the 1920’s to serve her husband and his friends. This recipe grew in popularity until it was manufactured in her garage, and now a very large factory. The recipe is still a secret.
ANIMALS:
For me the most unique part of the experience of being in and near a rain forest is the enjoyment of watching monkeys play in their natural environment. In the morning, you can wake to the sound of monkeys chattering away in the nearby canopy. They are not particularly shy and often will perch on the rooftops of the resorts watching you watch them. The Howler Monkeys are particularly fascinating. Known for their unique “howl” they have an interesting anatomical story. Their hearts are much lower in their body (and closer to the center for higher blood pressure to their extremities) to adapt to the gymnastic feats they are able to accomplish.
Birding is tremendous in the area. Costa Rica is home to some 850 bird species. Many tropical birds, such as toucans, can be seen from the roadsides or strolling through the resort. Of course, the best way to see these or any other beautiful animals is by taking a hike in one of many easily accessible National Park trails.
Another popular animal, and one that seems to show up often on t-shirts, souvenirs and tourist brochures is the tree frogs. These multicolor specimens are beautiful to behold. The Poisonous tree frog is beautiful but best seen at a distance. After a rain, the forests are a symphony of frog harmony.
The most beautiful butterfly species I have ever seen is the Mariposa Azul, a large variety with an incredible blue color. It is a contrast to the predominately green surroundings it inhabits. Other interesting animals seen readily are iguanas, raccoons and coatis, jaguars, ocelots, anteaters and tapers.
ACTIVITIES:
What makes Costa Rica such a wonderful destination is the variety of things there are to do. There are things to do for any level of activity desired. For those desiring less strenuous or relaxing activities, hiking, bird watching, volcano observation, beach bumming, swimming under a waterfall, Casino gambling, safari floats, and lounging with a fantastic view are all readily available throughout the country.
A Word on Safety: For many tourists, rumors or stories about ill-fated adventures are likely to be in the back your mind. I was extremely impressed with the Ministry of Tourism approach to this issue. There are standards set up for the tour operators which meet and usually exceed that of American operators. For example, I was amazed at the level of training required by the whitewater and zipline guides. The raft tour guides pointed out the numerous mandatory exit and retrieval points , and the engineering considerations I saw in the canopy tours was first class.
For those more inclined for high adventure, consider the following:
Surfing: The Pacific Coast is a popular spot for good surfing and provides a number of outfitters for those who are avid or just looking for beginning instruction.
Whitewater Rafting: This is available throughout the country. One of the most notable river destinations is Rio Toro. Wave Expeditions in Las Fortunas has a terrific tour of this class III/!V excursion. It was the best whitewater experience I had ever had.
Repelling/Canyoning: Available in many locations. Canyoning involves repelling into a small canyon, usually behind or beside a waterfall. It is quite an experience.
ATV tours: Available throughout the country. Operators have new equipment, speak English, and take their clients through some of the most beautiful terrain on earth.
Volcano Viewing: Arenal is perhaps the best location for this activity. Closer to San Jose is the Poas and Irazu volcanoes, which has a beautiful water-filled crater.
Horseback riding: There are many ranches and stables throughout rural Costa rica. Tour operators out of many of the resort areas provide rides through the jungle, along the beach, or to a nearby waterfall.
Kayaking: Available on the long stretches of coastline, at coastal towns and resorts, and through some of the gentle rivers throughout the country.
Sport Fishing: Prominent on both coasts. The charter operators speak English, have great tackle, and are extremely knowledgeable. The sport fishing for Marlin and Sailfish is some of the best in the world. A local favorite is the Roosterfish, which puts up a great fight. These three are catch and release, but there area wide variety of tuna and other tasty fish that can be caught, filleted and shipped back home. I made friends with Miguel, the owner of the Blue Fin and a fellow former fighter pilot in Quepos.
Boating and whale watching: Almost every town or resort with a marina has a catamaran or sailboat charter. Whale and sea turtle watching as well as incredible snorkeling are available on these tours through beautiful clear water. A favorite is the tour of several islands in the Gulf of Nicoya, where turtles abound on Tortuga Island.
Diving: Surrounded by water, there are numerous spots for diving the Caribbean and Pacific. The Drake Bay/Cano Island area is beautiful and remote, Quepos has some quality dive operators, and manta rays are a favorite among divers in the Catalina Islands.
Canopy and zipline touring: Perhaps the best overall in the world. Zip-lining was perfected here. In the Manual Antonio area, for example, there are currently eight different operators in different locales. One, Rain Forest Arial Trams near Jaco, just opened a unique combination of zipline and tram called a “Tranopy tour”.
MANUAL ANTONIO/ QUEPOS:
This is probably the best “one stop” destination for the widest variety of beauty and activities in Costa Rica. Just a couple hours drive ( or a very short flight) southeast of San Jose, this area gets its name from the Manual Antonio National Rain Forest. This is one of the smaller Parks in the country but is the most visited.
The nearby town is Quepos, which sprang up as a coastal destination for cane and pineapple shipping as well as early tourism. The American Zone was built in the 1930’s to house and support the export business. The ties that developed between American and locals (known as Ticos) has created a comfort and friendliness that is pleasing to behold. The marina is seeing a major expansion project and there are plans to extend a dock to water deep enough to dock a cruise ship. Currently, a few smaller cruise lines moor in the bay and tender visitors to the shore. An airport in town also serves commuter airlines with frequent flights from San Jose and other destinations.
Hotels here are typically placed carefully on the edge of and in the rain forest proper. This creates a lush tropical ambiance to the lodging experience. Grounds are colorfully landscaped and you will feel at all times close to nature.
There are a couple of roads leading out of Quepos and into the hotel area. The La Miraposa is the oldest luxury hotel in the area and is on the list of “1000 things to see before you Die”. The Parador is a beautiful property with notably good food close to the “end” of the hotel area. Closer to the central area are Si Como No, Byblos and Costa Verde, each with their own unique ambience. Si Como No is an awarded eco-friendly spot with its own movie theater and family-friendly atmosphere. It has a nature preserve with day and nighttime tours. Byblos has a lively sports bar and small casino, and I experienced more playful monkeys visiting here than any other place. Costa Verde is a sprawling property with a variety of eclectic finds. You can stay in an actual Boeing 727 perched among the hillside or have a drink in a bar that is actually in the fuselage of a cargo aircraft. As a pilot, I was particularly attracted to this property, and the sign at the entrance says it all: “Still more Monkeys than People”.
For all out luxury, the most likely destination resort is the Gaia, sporting a world-class spa and dining experience with spectacular views. For those inclined for a large and modern room, especially when hosting a large family or group, Los Altos is a great bet. It shares a private beach with Buena Vista Villas. The Villas was probably my overall favorite. It has beautiful bungalows sprinkled along the hillside. At the bottom of the hill is a beautiful secluded beach with water sports and surfing available. The steep grade of this property lends to great views but necessitates use of the complimentary carts that shuttle throughout the property.
If steep inclines are a potential problem a resort I really liked was La Foresta. It has a wonderfully landscaped grounds with a butterfly garden and is the final destination of the Titi Canopy Tour. The owners bring their native Texan friendliness to their guests. Nearby is Las Tranquilas, which is a property that is well suited for travelers less inclined for strenuous activities.
There are a large number of boutique hotels throughout the area. My favorite among those is Issimo Suites Cove, which specializes in honeymoon and romantic lodging experiences. One of the nicest hotel restaurants with great ambience is at Villas Lirio.
LAS FORTUNAS/ARENAL
Las Fortunas is a small town a few hours drive northwest of San Jose. It is also equally distant from Costa Rica’s other International Airport-Liberia. Las Fortunas has a nice downtown area full of shops, restaurants and a myriad of small motels and tour companies. I found the town to be quaint and friendly. It is perched a few miles outside the Arenal Volcano National Park. On the road out of town towards the volcano are a series of resorts, each boasting a fantastic view of the volcano. Another common feature at many of the resorts are hot springs, generated from the area’s significant geothermal activity.
Arenal itself is a beauty to behold. It is one of the most active volcanoes in the region, if not the world. It has an interesting pattern of small eruptions. Several times a day, on average, the mountain billows steam and often a small amount of lava. At night, the lava can often be seen flowing from the conical crater. Each eruption is accompanied by a rumble or even a noise I associated with a jet aircraft flying overhead. Geologically, it is active but does not currently present a major threat of significant eruption.
A few kilometers from town center is the Las Fortunas Waterfall and park. It is one of the most beautiful I have experienced. It is a short (600 meters but 480 steps!) hike from the visitor center. Be sure and take your swim suit to swim in the crystal clear water or plan a horseback ride down to the falls from one of the nearby horse ranches. Also nearby is Lake Arenal which boasts a variety of leisure and recreational opportunities. The activities include zipline tours, river floating, volcano hikes and nearby whitewater rafting of the highest caliber.
The classic resort, known best among avid tourists is the Tapacon. It is an awesome resort boasting spa and springs, views and luxury accommodations. The newest and most elegant resort in the area is The Springs. This is an incredibly large property with numerous restaurants, hot spring pools of various temperatures, and a vista view like no other. If the WOW factor and luxury are paramount, this is THE PLACE.
For intermediate and overall lush accommodations, I recommend Kioro. It is large, has great staff, is family friendly with a nice spa and hot spring facility. For something really different, Costa Rica Treehouses provides lodging in one of three actual tree houses. It is a very unique property located about 15 miles out of town.
CONCLUSION:
There is an incredible draw to this country. Its people are friendly, its climate is mild, it has not one but two different seacoasts. It is home to such beauty and breathtaking wonders of nature. While visiting here, I took the time to meet with local hotel owners, tour operators and tourism officials. I took their courses to become a “Costa Rica Expert”. Call today and I will be glad to help you plan your next Costa Rica vacation!
Jim Austin
Cruiseandmorestore.com
877-498-5559
